Okay, let’s start with draft beers… and what about the meat?
This is the conversation everyone has the moment they sit down at a Yakiniku table. Looking at the menu, some say, It has to be the classic Kalbi! while others insist, No, no, lately I prefer the refreshing taste of Loin (Roast).
This Kalbi Faction vs. Loin Faction debate might be the eternal theme of Yakiniku. But did you know? The names Kalbi and Loin (often called Roosu in Japan) on Yakiniku menus are actually slightly different from the official zoological names of the parts. They are more like common terms unique to the industry.
This time, we will uncover the true identity of these two parts, including their historical background. Reading this will surely make your Yakiniku selection smarter and more delicious.
What are Kalbi and Loin in the first place?
Kalbi = Meat around the Ribs
Let’s start with Kalbi.
The word Kalbi means ribs in Korean. In other words, Kalbi at a Yakiniku restaurant generally refers to the Belly meat around the cow’s stomach.
Its characteristic is, above all, that punchy flavor of fat. Layers of muscle and fat melt when heated, spreading a rich sweetness throughout your mouth. It goes perfectly with sauce (tare) and is the King of Yakiniku, often nicknamed the Rice Thief (as I personally like to call it).
Loin (Roosu) = Back… Not Necessarily? The Mysterious Rule of the Yakiniku Industry
Things get a little complicated with Loin (Roosu).
Originally, the etymology comes from meat suitable for Roast (Roasting), referring to the meat on the back side from the shoulder to the waist (Chuck Roll, Ribeye, Sirloin).
However, when you enter a Yakiniku restaurant in Japan, the situation changes a bit. The meat served when you order Loin is often not back meat, but lean Red Meat with less fat.
There is a historical background unique to the Yakiniku industry for this.
In the past, many Yakiniku restaurants in Japan served imported loin meat that didn’t have much fat. From that remnant, the image of Loin = Lean red meat with less fat took root, and that naming convention became customary in both high-end and general restaurants.
Inheriting that trend, many shops today still collectively call lean parts like the Shoulder (Ude) or Thigh (Momo) Loin, regardless of whether it is Wagyu or imported beef.
In other words, Loin in a Yakiniku restaurant can be said to be a word that refers to the role of refreshing red meat rather than a strict definition of the location.
Are Kalbi is greasy and Loin is dry misconceptions?
Why do you feel Kalbi is heavy lately?
When you pass your 30s, you often hear voices saying, Kalbi is too heavy for me now…
This isn’t just because of age. In fact, one factor is that Wagyu beef has been improved in recent years, and the belly meat (Kalbi) contains too much marbling (Sashi).
Fat is the source of umami (savory flavor), but if it’s not high-quality fat with a low melting point, it solidifies in the stomach and burdens digestion. Also, some shops serve parts that are mostly fat as Kalbi, which has led to the negative impression that Kalbi = Greasy.
The Evolving Modern Loin Situation
On the other hand, some may have the image that Loin is dry and tough.
It is true that standard loin in the past had that aspect, but now it is different. Many discerning Yakiniku restaurants have started using rare cuts such as Shintama (Knuckle/Round) as Loin (Red Meat).
In particular, Wagyu red meat has fine marbling and is moist and tender. Far from being dry, the more you chew, the more the rich umami of the meat overflows. Loin = Tough is a story of the past.
Which one are you? Smart selection by situation
Neither Kalbi nor Loin is superior. The important thing is to choose according to your current mood and “how you want to eat.”
When to be Team Kalbi
- For the first dish when you think I’m going to devour meat today!
The umami of fat that hits an empty stomach is the real thrill of Yakiniku. - When you have white rice in hand
Bouncing Kalbi dipped in plenty of sauce onto white rice. There is no greater happiness. - When you want to wash it down with beer or a highball
The exhilaration of washing away the sweetness of fat with carbonation is exceptional.
When to be Team Loin
- When you want to enjoy the flavor of the meat carefully
The umami of red meat is delicate. Eating with salt or wasabi allows you to enjoy the natural aroma of the meat. - When pairing with wine or sake
Since the fat is modest, it does not interfere with the flavor of the alcohol. - For the second half of the course
Even if your stomach is getting full, high-quality red meat goes down surprisingly smoothly.
The Answer to Kalbi and Loin given by Kuro5
Now, let me talk a little about our commitment at Yakiniku Kuro5.
Actually, at Kuro5, we dig deeper into the general definition of Kalbi = Belly meat and Loin = Red meat to decide our menu.
Kuro5’s Kalbi does not use Belly Meat
You might be surprised, but Kuro5 does not use the general Belly meat for Kalbi.
What we serve as Kalbi is surprisingly the high-grade part, Rib Roast (Ribeye).
We dare to serve Rib Roast, which is originally Loin (Back meat), as Kalbi. The reason is that we want you to avoid the heavy fat peculiar to belly meat and taste the refined, melting sweetness of Rib Roast fat.
It doesn’t weigh on the stomach even though it’s Kalbi. It’s so soft you can drink it. The reason we receive such comments is because of our commitment to selecting parts.
Adopting rare parts like Shin-shin for Loin
And for Kuro5’s Loin, we use Thigh meat (Momo), following the historical background mentioned earlier. However, it is not just any thigh meat.
We use Shintama (Knuckle), a rare part that is particularly soft and fine-textured among thigh meats. We differentiate between the Shin-shin (Center of the Knuckle), the beautifully marbled Tomo-sankaku (Tri-tip), and the rich-flavored Kamenoko (Turtle/Flank).
In particular, the popular Upper Loin (Shin-shin) is served as Rolling Yaki, where thinly sliced meat is rolled and grilled. By doing this, the meat juices are trapped inside, realizing a juicy texture that you wouldn’t expect from red meat.
Many customers say, I used to be Team Kalbi, but after coming to Kuro5, I became Team Loin. We believe this is because they experienced this Serious Red Meat.
Summary
“Kalbi” is for enjoying the punch of fat, and Loin is for enjoying the umami and moistness of red meat.
These names in Yakiniku restaurants represent their respective delicious roles rather than the location of the parts.
Next time you go to Yakiniku, instead of ordering for now, try consulting your tongue: I want to enjoy fat now, so Kalbi or I want to feel the taste of meat carefully, so Loin.
And if you get lost, please come to Kuro5. We are waiting for you with a new Yakiniku experience that slightly overturns conventional wisdom, with Kalbi using Rib Roast and Loin using the finest Thigh meat.
Wagyu Yakiniku Kuro5
IKEBUKURO Main Restrant
1F Shima 100 building ,2-46-3, Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku , Tokyo 171-0014
https://en.kuro5.net/restaurant/honten
Wagyu Yakiniku Kuro5
IKEBUKURO East Exit Restrant
2F Need Building, 1-42-16 Higashi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku, Tokyo 170-0013
https://en.kuro5.net/restaurant/higashiguchi
Wagyu Yakiniku KURO5
Kabukicho
1F Sankei Building, 2-21-4 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
https://en.kuro5.net/restaurant/kabukicho
Official Instagram: @kuro5yakiniku
